It’s an uncommon occurrence that a local Sydney café becomes internationally known. And it’s certainly a rare thing indeed when that renown is for something completely outside the remit of culinary culture.

But that rarified space without doubt belongs to Darlinghurst’s legendary Tropicana Caffe; a Sydney favourite that has transcended its humble beginnings as a cool and grungy café to become an internationally recognised touchpoint for creativity.

Occupying a landmark position on Victoria St, just south of the Darlinghurst Fire Station, it began as a regular café in 1980. The area then was of course a hotbed of students, artists, actors, musicians and various denizens of the rough and tumble local streets of the day. The Trop made the perfect setting for locals to while away the days, watching the vivid street life of the era pass by.

Through the 1980s and into the 1990s, the Trop was legendary as a melting pot of a vivaciously vibrant Sydney: famed band members, rising actors, supermodels, down-and-out art students – you name it, they were there, drawn by superb coffee and an iconic Italian-inspired menu.

As celebrated former Rolling Stone editor Toby Creswell writes, “The Trop was filled with people who were gonnamakeamovie, gonnawriteaplay, gonnabeabigstar.”

And indeed, it was amid this fertile scene that young local aspiring actor and filmmaker – and Trop regular – Jon Polson hit upon the idea of staging a small festival showcasing some of the many short films he and his creative friends were making at the time.

Thus “Tropfest” was born, with the first event taking place in 1993, films screened on one television before an exuberant gathering of 200 people.

Such was Sydney of the era that word of mouth saw the following year’s festival explode in popularity, organisers and police being forced to block off Victoria St to cope with the throng. Launching a vast number of acting and filmmaking careers, it was soon moved to The Domain, where it became a firm Sydney institution.

It was later moved to Centennial Park, with Polson, along with the likes of the Edgerton brothers, Rebel Wilson, Sam Worthington and Damon Herriman among a vast cast who have made their mark in cinema around the world.

After a hiatus following the Covid years, the festival made a triumphant return to Centennial Park last year, huge crowds flocking once again to a much-loved Sydney institution. And with plans afoot for next year’s instalment, there is a palpable buzz around the establishment these days.

Whilst the heady grungy scene of the ’80s and ’90s may be long gone, the Trop still stands as a stylish reminder of those thrilling days. The décor may be a little more refined, as is the clientele, but a visit on a busy winter weekday reveals that it still possesses that distinct old-school bohemian vibe.

It’s as if the imprint of the past remains, despite a renovation which has rendered the space considerably cosmetically different. Arts figures, filmmakers, local artisans, and people whom you’re pretty sure you recognise all gather amid stylish surrounds, with the updated menu still imbued with a strong Italian influence and the key factor of rich Illy coffee satisfying the demands of locals and visitors alike.

Whilst many lament that Sydney doesn’t do enough to cherish its local institutions, it’s heartening to realise that, whilst the old milk crates out the front are long gone and the scruffy vibe of those early days has changed, the spirit and soul of the Trop remains.

Much like how the renewed Tropfest is forging ahead into a new future, so too is the Tropicana itself, continuing to evolve while remaining one of Sydney’s enduring local icons.

Tropicana Caffe

https://tropicanacaffe.com/

By Adam Gibson 

Photo by Adam Gibson