Sydney has a multitude of local culinary institutions that serve to define a particular cuisine, neighbourhood or vibe. Those places that become destinations greater than the sum of their parts, where setting, history, ambience and, of course, the actual food coalesce to make an establishment a genuine part of the fabric of an area.

Around Sydney’s Inner East, spots such as Bill & Toni’s and Tropicana Caffe certainly fit that bill. And indeed, within sight of the latter stands another foodie favourite of much-loved pedigree.

Positioned prominently on the corner of Victoria and Craigend streets in the heart of Darlinghurst, acclaimed South Indian restaurant Malabar has been adding its own particular spice to the neighbourhood for more than 20 years.

Established in 2003, Malabar is a sprawling haven of South Indian fare, its menu based around the flavours of fresh coconut, curry leaves, tamarind and aromatic spices. Particularly renowned for its gourmet dosais, the crisp, delicate crêpes made from fermented rice and lentil batter, it also serves an array of coastal dishes including the ever-popular Goan fish curry. There are a couple of concessions to the north too, notably butter chicken and cheese naan, introduced after regulars began asking for them.

The name itself has an intriguing story. Malabar takes its name from the historic Malabar region of Kerala on India’s south-western coast, famed for centuries for its spices. There is also a curious Sydney connection. The MV Malabar was a passenger and cargo ship that ran aground at Long Bay in Sydney’s south-east in 1931, with the surrounding suburb subsequently renamed Malabar.

At the heart of the Darlinghurst restaurant is owner and executive chef Mohammed Sali, who trained in five-star hotels in Chennai and the Emirates before arriving in Australia in 1997. More than two decades after opening Malabar, he remains a hands-on presence, personally sourcing fresh produce from the markets and overseeing a kitchen that has developed an exceptionally loyal following.

The restaurant itself strikes a lovely balance between refinement and warmth. White tablecloths and leather seating combine with striking black-and-white murals depicting Indian life and heritage, while the large dining room retains a welcoming, almost homely feel. Fully licensed and offering BYO, it’s equally suited to a quick meal for two or the large family gatherings and group dinners that have long been part of its style.

On a recent weekday lunchtime, the restaurant is humming with a bustling crowd, an eclectic mix of hungry locals, nearby creatives, tourists and random solo diners. Rich aromas drift from the kitchen as plates and bowls move steadily across the room in the hands of wait-staff, conversation filling the space and giving the place that unmistakable sense of a restaurant comfortably embedded in its neighbourhood.

Are you hungry yet? If so, it might be time to dash into Darlinghurst for a dose of Malabar. After more than 20 years on this prominent corner, it’s a place that feels very much an integral part of the community.

Malabar Restaurant

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Article & photo by Adam Gibson