What is French for WOW!?

Christian Estebe has opened a new specialist French cheese salon in the heart of Potts Point within the last few days. Locals can call in to discuss, taste-test and choose their own specialty. Wine tastings are coming soon. If sumptuous cheeses, saucisson, charcuterie and foie gras don’t beguile you then the breathtaking “petite Louvre” ambience will. Foie gras is made from goose or duck liver. It can be served in a mousse or as a parfait and is characterised by a rich buttery taste which differs from traditional pâtés.

“The four seasons” classic ceiling frescos were installed by Christian himself as a homage to François Boucher (1703-1770), possibly the most famous 18^th century artist. Boucher was the official painter of Louis XV (1710-1774) for most of his life and painted voluptuous paintings at the apogee of the French Rococo style. “The four seasons”, depicting winter, spring, summer, and autumn area suite of frescoes. They are a visual metaphor for the terroir link between cheese, the earth and our tongue’s taste buds.

The salon is dressed and embellished lavishly with an original 1750 commode with a deep-veined ruby Carrara marble top, burgundy velvet drapes, gold pelmets and pink damask silk.

Bach’s Brandenburg concerti play soothingly in the background to complete the “ambience

éclat.”

It’s all decidedly délicieux.

The provenance of the shop’s name is his grandfather’s surname: it’s a family traditional name

As a former banker, he takes his new title, CEO of Berbigier, to mean “Cheese Executive Officer”; seriously tongue in cheek!

He has also taught maths and physics. Christian comes from a long line of those with a love of learning. He intends to teach locals about cheese and host master classes in the evenings about cheese and wine soon.

What he doesn’t know about cheese isn’t worth knowing.

His strong, charming French accent is intoxicating.

He carefully explains the names, source and “methode fabricant” of each product. Duck confit is a traditional French Christmas white truffle cheese. The triple cream Brillat-savarin affiné, made since 1820 in Normandy, is designed to complement Christmas Champagne.

“This is divine for the classic French Christmas and for New Year’s Eve”, he explains.

He also stocks rare Comte cheese, aged in the basement of a Napoleonic fort, Fort Saint Antoine. The fort is in the Jura mountains near the Swiss-French border. Today, over 100,000 cheese wheels are ripened for 10 to 20 months in this “Cathedral of Marcel Petite Comté”, as locals call it.

Roquefort cheese features high on Christian’s Christmas platter. Great care is taken to source the most authentic version. It comes from the last farm still standing using traditional methods, and is the smallest producer.

Roquefort is the most intense of the bleu vein cheeses. It is made of sheep’s milk in the south of France. The name itself is protected. The artisan farm making Christian’s Roquefort hand-bakes its own rye bread which produces the mould. This is then injected into the cheese to give it its unique texture, colour and taste.

For pre-Christmas functions or a dinner party Christian is preparing take-away platters to make functions “sing”.

Berbigier’s success is based on its fresh, unique, authentic product, Christian’s passion for detail and his personal relationship to his clients.

Shop 2, Springfield Gardens, off Orwell Street, Potts Point

Hours: Wednesday to Friday 10am to 6pm

Friday to Sunday: Closed

Phone: 0435 477 167

Email: christianrogerestebe@gmail.com

By Andrew Woodhouse, Heritage Solutions